What this session was about
Session 1 was handlers-only by design. Without the distraction of managing your dog, you focused entirely on the foundations that make every future session clearer and calmer. You explored what positive reinforcement really means, how marker training works, and why reading your dog’s stress signals is one of the most powerful skills you can develop.
The click is not a command — it’s a promise. It tells your dog: “yes, that — and a treat is on its way.”
Positive reinforcement & marker training
Focus on what your dog can do, not what you want them to stop. Marker training — the clicker — places a precise signal on exactly the behaviour you want. Think of it like a teacher putting a red tick next to the right answer. The dog learns what earned the reward and chooses to repeat it.
We also explored the Ladder of Trigger Stacking — how stress builds in layers, and why responding to early signals (yawning, lip-licking, turning away) matters so much.
What you practised
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01 —
Baking Beans on Treat DeliveryTrain your hand to move quickly and smoothly from pouch to dog. Two cups — one as the treat pouch, one as the dog’s mouth. Move one bean across as fast as possible each time “Treat” is called. Speed and flow in treat delivery matters enormously in a real session.
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02 —
One Finger Clicker CatchpointBuild precision: click only when one finger is shown — not two, three, four, five or a fist. The accuracy that comes with practice and rhythm awareness is exactly what you need when training with {dog_name}.
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03 —
Beat the SpoonSharpen your reflexes so the click happens during the behaviour, not after. Nudge the spoon off the table and click before it hits the floor.
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04 —
Quick Feed GameMeasure your rate of reinforcement: how many treats can you click and deliver in 60 seconds? The higher, the better — especially when building new behaviours.
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05 —
Stress Signals Activity CardsWorking in pairs, sort the stress signal cards into their trigger stacking categories. Observing one signal in isolation isn’t enough — look at the whole picture: environment, history, and the cluster of signals your dog is showing.
What this session was about
The first session with your dog. The warm-up settled everyone into the shared space before moving into the three ways to build a behaviour: capturing (catching what naturally happens), luring (guiding into position), and target training. The crucial lesson: fade the lure fast, or it becomes bribery. We also introduced duration — asking your dog to hold a position until they hear the click.
Only name the behaviour when you’re confident your dog is about to do it. Love it before you call it.
Capturing vs luring vs targeting
Capturing catches a natural behaviour with a click. Luring guides the dog into position using food — but the lure must be faded quickly or your dog follows the food, not the cue. Target training uses a lid or spoon to guide behaviour without food in hand — particularly useful for shaping a Down.
Duration: the click ends the behaviour. Start at zero duration, then build using the varying pattern: 0, 1, 0, 1, 2, 0. Always end on the shortest count.
What you practised
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01 —
Name GameClick the moment eye contact is offered, toss treat to the floor to reset. Add the name: click the moment your dog’s head starts to turn toward you. Turn away between repetitions to avoid reinforcing staring.
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02 —
I Spy (pairs)Working with your neighbour, each calling out a body part for the other to gently touch on their own dog. Builds observation skills, community, and gives your dog a positive association with the class environment.
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03 —
Capturing StandStep backwards — your dog is likely to stand to follow you. Click the shift from sit to stand, toss treat to the floor (not hand-delivered, to keep the stand). Add “Stand” once reliable.
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04 —
Luring the Sit & Fading the LureLure to sit, then hide treat behind your back — your dog will offer the sit anyway. Click the moment the rump hits the floor: lolly scramble of treats. Add “Sit” once the lure is gone.
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05 —
Target Training a DownTouch the target to the side of the nose, then gradually lower and move forward until your dog folds into a down. Fade the target, add “Down”.
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06 —
Roll the Dice (duration)The number rolled sets the count your dog holds the behaviour. Start with the die clattering as a treat event to desensitise to the sound. Joker = count of 1. Try in pairs.
What this session was about
The station became your dog’s personal safe zone — a mat or bed associated with calm and reward that they’ll seek out voluntarily. It’s also the anchor for all distance work. Distance training is built in exactly the same way as duration: varying, incremental, always race back to deliver the treat. We also introduced impulse control — one of the most transferable skills in the course.
Racing back to deliver the treat closes the distance and tells your dog: distance is always temporary.
Station & distance foundations
Click any movement toward the mat, shape toward a down settle, add the cue “Bed”. Distance can only follow duration — and only on a behaviour already on cue with confidence. The pattern is always: 0, 1, 0, 1, 2, 0. Always end on the shortest distance. If the Sit on Station is stronger than the Down in your environment, use that instead.
Impulse control: closed fist, wait without moving, open when the nose moves away, close if they lunge back. Click and treat from the other hand the moment your dog actively backs away from the open fist.
What you practised
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01 —
Name Game & Duration warm-upName Game to rebuild attention, then Sit/Stand/Down with duration using the varying pattern to sharpen responsiveness.
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Station TrainingIntroduce the mat, shape toward a down settle, add “Bed” cue. The station becomes your dog’s safe home base in any environment, at home or away.
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03 —
1, 2, 3 Banana GameThree banana-counts to get your dog’s full enthusiastic attention using every tool at your disposal — praise, food, toys, touch. You are the most interesting thing in your dog’s world when you truly show up for them.
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04 —
Click for DistanceZero distance first, then one step, race back to deliver the treat at the dog’s mouth. Vary the pattern: 0, 1, 0, 1, 2, 0. Always end on the shortest distance.
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05 —
Impulse Control — Open/Closed HandClosed fist, arm still, open when nose moves away, close if dog lunges back. Click and treat any moment dog actively backs away from the open fist.
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06 —
Roll the Dice (distance version)Die number = steps away from your dog. 1 step, 2 steps, 3, 4, 5. Joker = 1 step. Race back every time to deliver the treat at your dog’s mouth.
What this session was about
Until now your dog has learned to respond to cues with you standing in front of them. Session 4 changed that picture. We worked on your dog maintaining behaviours when you sit, go to the floor, or stand at their side. We also introduced Sidecuddles — the foundation for heel position and lead walking. Crucially, Sidecuddles is not a click/treat exercise: your dog doesn’t move, you move around them.
We are building the picture for your dog that the requirements of the cue stay the same whether you are standing, sitting on a chair, or sitting on the ground.
Sidecuddles — heel position foundation
Your dog has been reinforced to face you and make eye contact. For lead walking to work, they need to feel equally safe at your side. Sidecuddles desensitises them to you standing beside them. Extend your arm, palm up, rotate toward your body (elbow up), place treat in palm, offer to dog’s mouth, step around in a semi-circle to their side. Both facing the same direction. Return to facing them. Repeat both sides.
Once your dog is comfortable and offers the position: capture it, click/treat, then add the cue “Heel”.
What you practised
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01 —
Name GameRebuild attention from the moment your dog enters the room.
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02 —
Duration with handler position changeCue in default position, click as your dog commits, change position as you toss the treat. Gradually bring the position change earlier. Return to default every other cue — your dog needs the familiar picture as an anchor.
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03 —
SidecuddlesBoth sides, left and right. Not click/treat — desensitisation. Your dog stays still while you move. Build this into everyday life whenever you get the chance.
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04 —
1, 2, 3 Banana GameThree banana-counts of full engaged attention. Find out what your dog loves most and use it.
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05 —
Impulse Control (repeat)Open/closed fist, arm still. Consolidating self-control from the previous session.
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06 —
Roll the Dice (handler position version)Die number = your position when you give the cue. 1=Stand, 2=Chair, 3=Left side, 4=Ground, 5=Right side, 6=Chair. Add duration to any position.
What this session was about
Session 5 was about household distractions and building a practical toolkit to use when things get tricky. The Hand Target gives you an instant focus-puller. The 1,2,3 Focus Game trains your voice to cut through distraction. The Distraction Chain combines established behaviours into a sequence you can deploy the moment your dog locks onto something triggering.
The Distraction Chain gives your dog something purposeful to do — it breaks the fixation and buys you time to create distance.
Hand Target & Distraction Chain
Hand Target: flat palm to side of nose, click the nose touch, toss treat from other hand, remove hand to reset. Five reps, then add “Touch” cue. Only shift the muzzle — not the whole body.
Distraction Chain: 4 behaviours (or 2 alternated) your dog can perform confidently under stress. Avoid vulnerable positions (Down, Roll Over). Example: Hand Target → Sit → Hand Target → Sit. Easy, rewarding, building momentum.
What you practised
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01 —
Duration warm-up & Roll the Dice (pairs)Sit/Stand/Down with duration, then Roll the Dice in pairs — neighbour counts the duration for you while you hold the behaviour.
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Extended Impulse Control — chair and floorSame exercise, food presented on a chair, then on the floor. Food on the floor is one of the most irresistible impulses for a dog — backing away from it is a powerful demonstration of self-control.
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Hand Target — “Touch”Flat palm to side of nose, click nose contact, toss treat, remove hand. Five reps, then add the verbal cue “Touch”. An instant focus-puller you can use any time.
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04 —
1, 2, 3 Focus GameWo-oh-oh-on → Two-oo-oo → THREEEE!!!! Building excitement, tension and release in your voice to pull your dog’s attention back from a distraction. Practise until it feels natural.
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Use it and Love it (pairs)Dog holds position while handler completes activity cards: take shoes off, keys out of pocket, sunglasses on/off, untie laces, pick up keys from floor, jacket off/on. Repeat each card twice.
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06 —
Distraction ChainBuild your personal chain of 4 behaviours (or 2 alternated). Practise until it flows, then try with a mild real-world distraction.
What this session was about
Session 6 took everything learned and tested it in the real situations you face every day. The station became the anchor for three distinct real-world scenarios: a doorbell going off, a phone ringing while you take the call, and sitting at a café table with food and drink present. In each case the approach was the same — foundation first, distraction second.
The station is your dog’s safe home base — in any environment, at home or away. Tonight you proved it works in the real world.
Three real-world station scenarios
Doorbell: rebuild station, introduce doorbell sound, dog holds settle while it sounds. Click and treat for maintaining position.
Phone call: station rebuilt, phone rings, you take the call. Dog holds settle while you have a real conversation. Duration and distance in one.
Café: station rebuilt, order a coffee, drink it, eat at the table. Dog settles while food is present and handler is distracted. The real test.
What you practised
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01 —
Name Game & Impulse Control warm-upRebuild attention and self-control from the moment your dog arrived in the room.
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02 —
Station — DoorbellRebuild the station baseline, then introduce the doorbell sound as a distraction. Your dog holds settle while the doorbell sounds.
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03 —
Station — Phone callRebuild station, then the phone rings and you take the call. Dog holds position while you have a real conversation.
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04 —
1, 2, 3 Banana GameA well-earned break and connection game. Three banana-counts of full engaged attention.
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Station — Café / coffee / foodRebuild station, then order a coffee, drink it, eat at the table. Food nearby, handler distracted, life happening around your dog.
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06 —
Use it and Love it (pairs)Handler position cards — stand, chair, left side, ground, right side. Linking back to Session 4’s handler position work.
What you’ve built over six sessions
Keep the learning going
The course may be finished, but the training isn’t. Here’s how to continue with Darran and the team — in community, online, or in your own home.
All Ears Community
The place where the work you’ve done in class continues. Darran’s weekly live Q&A, a growing knowledge base, member resources, and a group of owners on exactly the same journey. The questions you have in three months’ time are exactly what the community exists for.
Online VIP Coaching
Direct access to Darran and the team — personalised responses to your questions, video review of your training sessions, and one masterclass per month. For owners who want expert eyes on their specific dog and situation, not just general guidance.
Private In-Home 1‑1 Training
Darran works with you and your dog in your own home — the environment where the real challenges happen. Tailored entirely to your dog, your household, and your specific goals. For owners who want accelerated progress or have specific challenges that need individual attention.
